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August 16, 2025

The historic Hurtigruten postal ship Nordstjernen will turn 70 years old in 2026, but that doesn’t mean it can be considered a relic of the past. Still, traveling on board feels a bit like stepping back in time.

In Gdansk, even the Swedish ferry moored nearby towers several decks above the small Nordstjernen. But on the plus side, check-in is incredibly simple: on the pier, you give your name to the tour guide, who checks it off a list, and you immediately receive the magnetic key to your cabin. In no time, a table is assigned to you in the restaurant, and you can already board. It couldn’t be easier!

The number of passengers aboard the Nordstjernen, the former Hurtigruten postal ship built in Hamburg in 1956, usually remains in the tens — a size otherwise found only on luxury cruise ships, where the daily rate easily exceeds the cost of the entire journey on the Nordstjernen. It should be said right away: luxury, in the traditional sense, is not to be found on board this sea veteran. But true luxury doesn’t always lie in precious materials or unlimited options; sometimes, it’s the little things that make a ship like this truly special.

An “open” ship

One of these details is the bow deck, affectionately called “Stjerna” by regulars. This area, usually off-limits to passengers on modern ships, is open to all on the Nordstjernen. During maneuvers, guests are only asked not to obstruct the crew and to watch out for ropes, winches, and anchor chains. Those who do will find themselves at an exceptional viewpoint: an unobstructed view forward, just a low railing as a barrier, and the fresh wind from the bow — exactly the kind of experience often missed on today’s large cruise ships.

The same applies to the promenade deck, another little gem on board. It runs all around the ship, is fully covered, yet so close to the waterline that you literally come into contact with the elements: wind, spray, and salt air included. On the starboard side, the deck passes by the galley, which doesn’t have a modern ventilation hood but simply an open window. Here you can watch the ship’s cook preparing meals — without having to book an exclusive course months in advance. A true vintage-style “show kitchen.”

When, after departure, the Nordstjernen reaches its modest cruising speed of 10 knots, it’s finally time to settle comfortably into your cabin. Cabin 306 is one of the largest on board; only the former owner’s cabin right next door (No. 304) is a bit more spacious—and it’s also the only one on the entire ship with a double bed, which is why it’s always among the first to be booked. Otherwise, sleeping arrangements are in bunk beds. The ladder to the upper bunk is stored in the wardrobe, which, like all the cabin paneling, is made entirely of wood. A sofa, a chair, and a small table already represent a little luxury, and even the painting hanging on the wall—depicting the Nordstjernen in front of a glacier in the Svalbard—is an exception: in other cabins, space is too limited. The cabin windows look directly onto the promenade deck, so it’s advisable to close the curtains if you don’t want to attract curious glances from other passengers.

Much love for details

During the first thirty years of its life, the Nordstjernen sailed as a two-class ship. Until 1983, it offered separate areas on board for First and Second Class. This distinction is still vaguely noticeable in the layout of the spaces: on the salon deck there is a lounge and restaurant at the bow (once reserved for First Class), and another lounge and restaurant at the stern (formerly for Second Class). The latter is now a cozy café, and all structural separations between classes have long since disappeared. However, the true jewel of the ship remains the forward lounge. With its square windows facing the bow, the wooden sculptures by artist Paul René Gauguin on the walls, and the comfortable upholstered armchairs and sofas, this space feels timeless yet so authentic that passengers feel transported back to the 1950s or ’60s—when traveling in style to the North Cape and back meant exactly this. Paul René Gauguin (1911–1976) was, among other things, the grandson of the famous French painter Paul Gauguin. Besides the works in the forward lounge, he is also responsible for the large wood engraving in the forward stairwell and various inlays of wood, glass, and ceramics found in the restaurant and bar.

At 7:00 p.m., the small group of passengers gathers for the first time in the restaurant for dinner. This is the fifth of the six listed items in the minimalist daily program: “Boarding” (2 p.m.), “Safety Briefing” (4:30 p.m.), “Bar Opening” (5 p.m.), “Departure,” and finally “Dinner.” Like in the forward lounge, attention to detail is evident in the dining room as well: every table is decorated with little flags and flowers, the tablecloths are embroidered with the company logo, and the blue upholstered chairs boast a whimsical sea serpent pattern on the backrest. The only drawback is the limited space. If someone sitting next to the window wants to get up, the two neighbors must also move to let them pass, and for the waiters, serving the dishes becomes a small acrobatic act each time. The upside? Friendships form quickly. You soon discover that all guests share a certain aversion to large cruise ships with thousands of passengers. Whether from direct experience or hearsay, no one wants to give up the almost family-like atmosphere aboard the Nordstjernen—between passengers, crew, and tour guide alike.

Under Monument Protection

What unites all passengers is also the awareness of traveling on a kind of “floating museum.” In 2012, the Riksantikvar—the Norwegian Directorate for Cultural Heritage—placed the Nordstjernen under monument protection. This measure not only prevented the ship from being sold abroad but also established that any future structural modifications on board are forbidden or subject to strict conditions. This is the highest level of cultural heritage protection in Norway—the same granted, for example, to the famous timber-framed stave churches. Not surprisingly, the Riksantikvar affectionately called the ship a “floating wooden church.”

The “cultural asset” that is Nordstjernen can be best appreciated by walking on the deck. Here you will still find the original wooden lockers with life jackets, the davits bear the name of the German manufacturer “Ottenser Eisenwerk”—the pseudonym behind which Blohm & Voss hid at a time when the Allies did not yet permit the official use of that name—and the funnel still proudly displays the three white rings on a black background: the colors of the Bergenske Dampskibsselskab (BDS) company, which commissioned the ship’s construction in Hamburg in 1955. The Bergen Line, as it was known abroad, has long ceased to exist, as has the name Blohm & Voss, which today survives only nostalgically along the floating docks of the Elbe. When BDS sold the Nordstjernen to another Norwegian company in 1979, the ship initially adopted the logo of Troms Fylkes Dampskibsselskap (TFDS) on the funnel, and later, starting in 2006, that of the new Hurtigruten group. In 2012, after being purchased by Vestland Classic AS, the owner decided—in agreement with the Riksantikvar—to restore the historic colors of the Bergen Line. Along with the rights to use the logo, Vestland also acquired a 90-piece silverware set decorated with the emblem of the historic Norwegian company. Some of these pieces are now displayed in a cabinet in the ship’s restaurant.

Karlskrona

The next morning, when I open the curtains of my cabin window, the sun is shining outside. I’m already up at 6:30 a.m.—I want to enjoy the ship all to myself for a while. Even before breakfast is served, I sit alone at the bow for a few minutes, letting the wind gently brush my face—a wonderful feeling. Not just because this exposed spot is usually off-limits on other ships, but also because on a cruise ship, it’s rare to find a place to be alone. At most, the bridge keeps an eye on me, but the crew is used to such presence and trusts that passengers watch their step and behave responsibly on the bow deck.

Shortly after, while passengers have breakfast, they notice with some surprise, looking out from the restaurant windows, that the Nordstjernen is stationary—and no pilot is in sight. Soon the explanation arrives: the Swedish Navy, which bases much of its fleet in Karlskrona, is conducting an exercise in the bay. Really? On a Sunday? And on Mother’s Day, no less? And without any prior warning? But neither the port nor the navy budge: no civilian ship may enter until the maneuvers end. In the end, one must wait until noon for the Nordstjernen, moving at its slow and steady pace, to make its way through the skärgård rocks and dock right in the historic center of Karlskrona.

Onboard this ship, even more than on others, watching the docking maneuvers from the deck is a real spectacle. While modern ships can “park” practically sideways thanks to bow and stern thrusters or sophisticated azipods, mooring the Nordstjernen—which has none of these aids—is still a completely manual operation: the ship is initially secured to the pier with the bow line, then the anchor is dropped, and finally the stern is allowed to slowly drift toward the quay. The only way to correct the course is by using the single propeller on board, which has adjustable blades that allow at least some small forward and backward movements in controlled bursts.

In Karlskrona, it’s impossible to ignore the city’s military and maritime history. Massive walls separate the naval area from the rest of the town, austere monuments commemorate heroes of ancient battles, and the sea—never far from the historic center—constantly offers views of old and new warships: docked at the naval museum pier, at the modern naval base, or anchored in the bay. But Karlskrona also has its more poetic and peaceful corners: the old railway line to the arsenal has been transformed into a green urban moat, in the city park a Eurasian woodcock walks undisturbed through the grass, and on the small island of Stakholmen, near the Fish Market, a pair of storks has chosen to nest right beside the wooden path. A fragment of an intact world gladly preserved in memory, despite the slightly gray weather.

Bornholm

The third day of the journey welcomes passengers with the same sunshine that the Nordstjernen had when it left Karlskrona the day before. At dawn, the ship had already rounded Hammerodde, the northern tip of the island of Bornholm, and now proceeds at a calm speed of 5 knots toward Rønne, the island’s capital. Meanwhile, below deck, every crew member greets passengers with a warm “Good Morning” or “Guten Morgen,” and among the guests, there’s still a friendly and relaxed atmosphere.

The ten-hour stop in Rønne is more than enough to explore the town and even take a trip inland. I boarded a bus that took me to Gudhjem, a small fishing village on the northern coast of Bornholm, known for its artisanal glassworks and fish smoking. But before the start of the summer season, Gudhjem is mostly one thing: wonderfully peaceful. In May, there are very few tourists; the locals are at work, and after the Tuborg truck restocked beer at the local supermarket (Brugsen) and left for the next coastal village, you find yourself alone—with yourself, the Baltic wind, and the sound of waves on the pebble beach. A little paradise.

Compared to Gudhjem, Rønne is the exact opposite. Travelers of all kinds crowd endlessly through the streets between the historic center and the ferry port; voices in every language fill the spring air around the market square, and cars and buses bustle through the streets, departing to every corner of the island, big or small. Yet, Rønne has its own charm. Cobbled alleys lined with colorful half-timbered houses invite leisurely strolls, shops selling crafts, wool, and similar goods spark curiosity and shopping, while the lawn behind the Lystbådehavn (the marina) is perfect for lounging on the grass, enjoying the view of ferries, cargo ships, and fishing boats. Rønne even has a small urban beach—although, of course, Bornholm is best known for its wide sandy beaches like those at Dueodde and along the island’s southern coast.

In the evening, Thomas, the onboard chef, is in his element. Danish by origin, he presents his own interpretation of “Sol over Gudhjem” during the Nordstjernen’s visit to Rønne. He explains it in his own words to all the passengers in the restaurant, mentioning that he bought most of the ingredients for the dish that very day on the island. Bornholm’s national dish consists of rye bread with smoked herring, radish, and chives (starter), pork belly with mashed potatoes, Brussels sprouts, and peas (main course), and an ice cream creation called “Krølle Bølle,” named after the troll who, according to legend, lives in the underground caves of Bornholm’s many cliffs. The menu, enjoyed with traditional Carlsberg Pilsner beer, is a true delight—and anyone who says Scandinavian cuisine lacks creativity will have to reconsider!

Goodbye Nordstjernen

The final moment of the day: “Goodbye Nordstjernen.” The farewell gathering between the travel team, crew, and passengers is scheduled for 9 PM in the aft lounge, but after a brief democratic vote (something only possible on a very small ship!), it’s immediately moved to the adjacent sun deck. Bathed in the sunset light halfway between Rønne and Rostock, glasses of sparkling wine are raised, the crew puts on an impromptu musical performance, and warm farewell words are shared by the tour guide, the captain, and even some passengers. Although the journey lasted less than four days, by the end everyone feels like a small family—only a small ship can create such an atmosphere, where relationships are genuine, distances are short, and everything flows simply and informally.

The four-day journey on the Nordstjernen concludes the next morning in Warnemünde. Here, however, the “Stjerna” receives a welcome rarely seen by other ships. An old fire brigade boat approaches the vintage Hurtigruten steamer at the pier, spraying powerful jets of water from its pumps. Almost all passengers gather at the bow of the Nordstjernen to watch this spectacle, but all too quickly, after the fire boat, the Hotel Neptun, the “Teepott,” and the old lighthouse—the three symbols of Warnemünde—pass before us.

Saying goodbye to the Nordstjernen is therefore difficult—not only for the passengers, who quickly grew fond of the ship, but also for the crew, especially since the captain personally shakes the hand of each guest at the foot of the gangway. Incidentally, in Warnemünde, the post ship’s superstructure barely reaches the lower edge of the terminal roof—a rare sight in a city where cruise ships usually tower like skyscrapers over every building.

A ship like no other

But the Nordstjernen is truly special in many ways. Some aspects are known even before departure; others reveal themselves only once onboard. Those who choose to travel on this ship know they will have to make do with narrow cabins—more than a third (28 out of 71) without a toilet or shower; corridors and staircases where you might bump your head or knee more than once; and noises that vary in intensity depending on the ship’s location. But they also choose a ship where, besides various cabins, the hotel manager’s and tour guide’s offices are always open, where almost every wish is fulfilled simply and without bureaucracy, and where you can access spaces and decks that elsewhere would be forbidden by “No Entry” signs or large windshields.

Does a ship like the Nordstjernen still have a future today? We certainly hope so, but it’s by no means guaranteed. With the rock-bottom prices offered by the industry giants, an owner like Vestland Classic simply can’t compete; on the other hand, the high prices charged by many luxury companies for their modern expedition ships are hardly justified by the Nordstjernen’s rather antiquated appearance. The 150 berths (130 if you exclude the cabins where noise levels become almost unbearable) must be filled throughout the season, which is not easy for an operator who doesn’t appear in common online cruise databases and relies almost exclusively on word of mouth and other very limited marketing methods.

Still, 2026 will be a big celebration: the Nordstjernen will reach the remarkable age of 70 years. It is expected to resume sailing the seas of the North and Baltic, naturally calling at its home port of Bergen, from which it could set off northwards toward Kirkenes. Perhaps as part of a nostalgic journey touching all—or at least many—of the small Hurtigruten stops along the route? It would be a dream trip that many enthusiasts of the ship and Hurtigruten won’t want to miss.

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Kai Ortel

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