A-Rosa Sena: A winter river cruise on the northern Rhine


The journey begins in Cologne, the home port of the A-Rosa Sena. But before we embark the shipping company’s latest river cruise ship, we take advantage of the Advent season to visit Cologne’s Christmas market. 

In the old town and on Heumarkt square, the scent of cinnamon and mulled wine is in the air, while the ice rink is used for ice skating and curling and the many beautifully decorated historical stalls offer handcrafted Christmas gifts. This is exactly how an Advent cruise should begin. I buy myself a winter hat and get into the pre-Christmas mood with a cup of punch and a crêpe. Then we stroll to the main train station to take the free shuttle bus to the pier at Deutz harbor. 

The A-Rosa Sena is waiting for us there with its distinctive livery in the form of red lips and a red rose at the bow. I quickly manage to take a photo with the ship, the Deutz Bridge and Cologne Cathedral in the background before the friendly crew beckons me to board. On embarkation, red roses are handed out for the guests, for which there is even a small vase on the mirror in the cabin. Temperatures close to zero degrees don’t stop me from watching the casting-off maneuver, including the turn, from the slightly icy sun deck. As a reward, the sun breaks the gray band of clouds a little. Next stop: Rotterdam. 

But first, we take a closer look at the ship. With the A-Rosa Sena, the German shipping company A-Rosa Flussschiff GmbH plays a pioneering role in European river cruising. 

A-Rosa Sena: a ship in a new dimension 

This statement applies in several respects. Higher, wider, and more guests. The dimensions of the ship make it clear: at 135 m long and 17.7 m wide with 5 decks, the A-Rosa Sena is the largest river cruise ship in Europe, with room for around 280 guests. These special ship dimensions only really become apparent when other river ships are moored next to the Sena. This size benefits the feeling of space and the variety of offers on board. The vast majority of guests experience this in their cabins in an extremely pleasant way. The standard cabins are already 21 square meters in size and all cabins on decks 2, 3, and 4 feature a real balcony, allowing guests to enjoy their river cruise in the privacy of their own outdoor area. 

The A-Rosa Sena also breaks new technological ground: With its diesel-electric hybrid drive, it has been the most climate-friendly river ship in Europe since it entered service in June 2022. Large electric motors placed on the three propulsion gondolas, which can be flexibly rotated 360 degrees, provide propulsion. The power supply for these motors is provided by diesel generators during the journey or by the huge battery pack when docking and casting off. A correspondingly large battery storage system (1.4 megawatts) is concealed under the ship’s canopy. In battery-only mode, the A-Rosa Sena can travel for around 40 minutes – completely emission-free. No wonder the A-Rosa Sena has already received several awards for its environmental friendliness. Both with the “German Award for Sustainability Projects 2022” and the Green Award from the foundation of the same name. 

Cabin with balcony and clever details 

The generously equipped cabins have a few surprises in store. We immediately feel at home in the modern ambiance with light gray and blue tones. Our luggage quickly finds a place in the ample storage space and I immediately notice some clever solutions: a practical side table, a water carafe that can be filled free of charge at the tap in the corridor, lots of hooks, and a small wooden compartment under the power strip to place a smartphone for charging. There are even USB ports type A and C on board, as well as plenty of power sockets. Packed free of plastic, fluffy bathrobes and slippers await us. In the bathroom, we immediately notice the large glass-enclosed shower and the high-quality soft towels. We use the cabin’s information center, the large flat screen, for safety exercises and discover the extensive program of films, music with theme-specific playlists, detailed travel data, and the daily program in addition to the TV function. Now dinner is already calling. 

“Premium All Inclusive” and buffet concept 

A-Rosa offers an all-around carefree package. The cruise price includes breakfast, lunch, and dinner buffet, as well as embarkation snack and coffee hour, just as high-quality drinks throughout the day. In addition, there is free use of the sauna and fitness facilities, Wi-Fi, room service, and e-bike rental (where available). 

My stomach is already rumbling, so we look for a seat in the A-Rosa Market, the large buffet restaurant. We appreciate the great flexibility and are pleased that there is no fixed seating. The aroma of the buffet hits my nose – this comes from the live cooking, which is not only a visual eye-catcher but also highlights the freshness of the preparation and simply whets the appetite. An extra section with vegan food pleases guests with special dietary requirements. I fill my plate myself, course by course, in a very appealing way, because after all, you eat with your eyes too. The Austrian restaurant manager recognizes that and immediately offers me a job in the kitchen if required. I prefer to remain a guest and enjoy a hearty potato soup, light salmon with vegetables as my main course, and an apple strudel with vanilla sauce for dessert. Now it’s time to move to the lounge, where Captain Ulli Schwalbe and his team introduce themselves to applause. This is how it should be on a river cruise and illustrates the family atmosphere on board, even though there are well over 200 guests including us. To round off the first evening, we try out a new service function in the A-Rosa app: ordering drinks at your seat. Even though waiters are available to take orders, there is the opportunity to check the drinks menu at the app directly on the smartphone, select drinks, and add the table number to your order. A short time later, the waiter serves the requested drinks. While the cruise director solves a short quiz and the DJ brings the evening to a close with lively music, soon my eyes drift shut after an eventful day. 

Architecture and Culinary in Rotterdam 

On the second day on our way to Rotterdam, we are informed about an alternative port in Schoonhoven, which is a little out of the way and which we have to head for due to traffic. On the way there in the morning, a light mist drifts over the canals while the sun begins to bathe a series of windmills on the shore in a mystical light. As soon as we dock, shuttle buses are already waiting to take us from Schoonhoven directly to a parking lot at the Erasmus Bridge in Rotterdam. The sun clears the remaining fog and gives us a clear view under a blue sky. We walk on our own through the architecturally exciting harbor district, past the maritime museum to the futuristic market hall. Inside the building, which is flooded with light through huge glass fronts, foodies’ hearts beat faster. Delicacies from all over the world are on offer at small market stalls. Cheese, sausages, chocolates, and other sweets are particularly popular here. Even I can’t say no to this delicious sight and sample something. We then move on to the artistic cube houses in bright yellow – diagonally opposite the market hall. To get a more detailed view we visit a fully equipped museum cube house and learn about the daily life living there. Then we continue along the pedestrian zone past the Laurentskerk and the Stadthuis. As dusk slowly sets in, the Christmas lights come on in the streets and stores. As the cold starts to get to us, we take a seat in a time-honored café. There we warm up with a hot chocolate and a piece of cake. Then it’s time to head back to the bus and back to the ship. As there is still time before dinner, I put on my fluffy bathrobe and set off to explore the spa on board. 

The largest spa and wellness area on a river cruise ship 

Behind the name Spa-Rosa is a very generously dimensioned wellness area. As soon as you walk down the light-flooded circular staircase to deck 1 and enter the spa, you will feel relaxed. A calming fragrance, gentle sounds, and a modern feel-good ambiance with lots of wooden furniture take you on a wellness journey. These could be lines from an advertising brochure, but A-Rosa Sena turns them into reality. How about a visit to the large Finnish sauna first, then cooling off in the ice grotto before wrapping yourself in a fluffy blanket and resting in the relaxation room in front of the electric fire? Especially in the winter months, this is also part of a relaxing vacation. The fact that this is possible on a river cruise surprised me on this trip. After a massage in one of the two treatment rooms, I enjoyed the indoor whirlpool all the more. 

Right next to the Spa-Rosa is the fitness studio with several cardio and strength machines as well as a spacious area for workouts. I wasn’t the only one to use the gym. The size and equipment of the fitness studio definitely invite you to take part in a personal activity program. 

Who is on the trip with us? Mainly guests aged between 40 and 70, but there are also a few families with small children on board. This is due to the current season without school vacations, as the A-Rosa Sena is targeting precisely this group. 

Family-friendly on the river 

On the A-Rosa Sena, it’s all hands-on deck! Here, too, A-Rosa is breaking new ground and offering a truly coherent product for the family target group. 12 family cabins on deck 1 allow up to two adults and three children to travel together in a very comfortable and child-friendly environment. Sleeping berths for the kids, an extra play table and all this on deck 1 with a large (non-opening) window so that the children can stay in the cabin on their own. However, another highlight awaits the little ones on deck 1: the huge Kids Club in the form of an adventure playground for sailors. Appropriate childcare facilities as well as an extra family area with a separate buffet in the restaurant and a shallow children’s pool on the sun deck will make the hearts of parents and their children beat faster. Those paying attention to the price will be pleased to know that children up to the age of 15 travel free of charge on deck 1 when accompanied by their parents. 

On day 3 on the way to the city harbor of Amsterdam, the sun deck remains closed due to low bridges. This is where the dimensions of the A-Rosa Sena become a challenge. This generally applies to the selection of available routes. The dimensions of the river ship only permit Rhine tours and no tributaries. Despite flying the Swiss flag, it is not possible to reach Basel in the south due to the width of the locks. Strasbourg is the end of the line for the A-Rosa Sena. No wonder it has so far primarily served routes on the northern Rhine. 

In Amsterdam, we dock very centrally at the Rivercruise Terminal. This makes it easy to explore Holland’s capital on foot. 

Romantic canals and Christmas magic 

The festively decorated canals, lined with historic buildings, give the impression of walking through a winter fairy tale. Fog rolls in early, which gives the atmosphere a mystical kick. Instead of visiting a museum or taking a canal cruise, which we had already experienced on a previous visit, we opted for a stroll through the city with some Christmas shopping. A quick stop for sweet poffertjes is a must. 

Back on board, it’s time for dinner at Sena Grill, the specialty restaurant that charges an additional fee. We opt for a culinary journey from fresh sashimi sushi, to a salmon bowl with teppanyaki sauce, to a filet mignon and a crème brûlée. The food is freshly prepared in front of us using the show cooking booth. Not to be missed. 

Interesting ship details 

The A-Rosa Sena has other special features to offer. On deck 4 at the very front of the bow, in the Captain’s View outdoor area, you can enjoy the view of the same name behind a glass front despite the icy wind. I imagine this to be one of my favorite places for a summer cruise. The comfortable lounge furniture invites you to enjoy the peaceful glide along the river with a glass of wine or cocktail in your hand while the riverside landscape slowly passes by. Even when the sun deck is closed, the Captain’s View is open and a dream come true for pure river cruise fans. I almost forgot that hot chestnuts and mulled wine were being served on the outdoor area of the Riverside Restaurant this evening. These are the special moments of an Advent cruise. In the summer season, guests are more likely to enjoy the Up & Down Bar, a retractable bar on the sun deck. Not only the ship’s bridge can be retracted for low bridge passages, but also this bar. Speaking of the bridge, Captain Schwalbe invites us for a short visit and chat on his bridge. A very impressive place to work! 

Next stop Utrecht 

The A-Rosa Sena is moored just outside the city center today. We take the opportunity to make a long stroll into the old town along small canals with a view of many houseboats. Our route takes us past the central station through a huge shopping mall, along Utrecht’s most famous canal – the Oudegracht – to the majestic Utrecht Cathedral. The many festive light installations are perfect for atmospheric vacation photos. Next to the cathedral, the Pandhof Sinte Marie, a hidden monastery courtyard with a medieval cloister and enchanting garden, is well worth a visit. Even in winter, the simple beauty of this place lends a spiritual note to the walk. On the way back, we are stopping at a small Christmas market next to a historic windmill. While Christmas carols are playing, we visit the mill and are inspired by the many handmade gift ideas. In the meantime, the cold is getting into my feet through my shoes. I’m already looking forward to another sauna session on board. 

The following day on the river back towards Cologne, the sun clears the fog early in the morning and the sun deck, covered in a light frost, becomes a popular meeting place for guests. The crew tries to clear the deck of slippery ice and even scatters some sand. I’ve never seen anything like it on board before. Brave people march in bathrobes towards the outdoor pool and do a few laps in the slightly heated pool. I imagine a very lively scenario in the summer months when the guests eagerly use the river cruise to sunbathe, relax on deck, and cool off in the two pools. The decision is quickly made to head for a river cruise onboard the A-Rosa Sena in the summer months next year. 

Entertainment program on board 

In the large lounge, there are lectures on the construction of the ship and its technical details, as well as a Christmas quiz and a bean bag toss competition. My ambition is awakened in the latter and I win a bottle of Prosecco. After the lunch buffet in the light-flooded pavillon, we find a nice spot in the lounge, which is already decorated for Christmas. With a view through the large panoramic windows, we let the flat landscape on the banks of the Rhine pass us by in silence. Suddenly our table neighbors murmur. We both spot some wild horses on the riverbank – in the middle of Europe. Time flies and delicious Christmas cookies and cakes are served at the daily coffee hour. We take the bottle of Prosecco I have won back to our cabin to enjoy the early evening sun, which bathes our ship in orange light, on our private balcony. Of course, we can’t miss a bridge passage, which is always a popular photo opportunity and visitor spectacle, and not just on river cruises. The closer we get to our destination port of Cologne, the more clearly the riverside landscape changes towards the “romance of industry and power stations”. On the last evening, Captain Schwalbe and his team bid farewell to the guests with a toast. The last “Kopfnuss” (the name of the daily quiz) is solved and we say goodbye to our fellow travelers and our new friends Carmen and Manuela with a cocktail. 

Oh yes, the lock adventure is a must on a river trip. However, this is rare here on the northern Rhine. Only once, and that was at night, did we pass through a lock that transported us to the right height on the river. 

Conclusion: 

A-Rosa advertises in Germany with the slogan “Schöne Zeit” (Have a great time), which is exactly what we had on board the A-Rosa Sena. The enormous size of the ship impresses with a lot of comfort: from the cabin with balcony to the very spacious spa and fitness area. With its hybrid drive concept and other sustainability efforts, the shipping company plays an exemplary leading role in Europe. 

Even though I`m personally not a buffet lover, I was spoiled with an excellent selection of delicious dishes including live cooking. It remains to be seen whether the planned service-at-the-seat concept will be implemented for the pavillon area in the future. For me, it would be a perfect addition to the already very high level of service on board. And if you want to go on a river cruise as a family with children, the A-Rosa Sena is exactly the right ship for you. However, there is one small drawback to the size of the ship: due to the existing waterways in Europe, the A-Rosa Sena‘s cruising area is limited to the wider sections of the Rhine in the northern part. 
Don’t miss more updates, news and reviews about A-Rosa Sena on Cruising Journal. 
Josef Eisenberger

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